Monday, March 10, 2014
Saturday, March 8, 2014
Friday, March 7, 2014
this was as close as we got to the pompidou,
paris's iconic modern art center.
we planned an evening visit
for fewer people and nighttime viewing on its top floor.
we were tired today from our long walk (and climb)
yesterday but thought we could manage a nearby museum.
we strolled to the museum, stopping here and there
as we like to do. buying some small last minute items to take home.
(yes, the trip home is now in our thoughts and conversations.)
we decided to stop for our noisette and coke.
E added an Obama pizza to his order. it was rather like
a big mac without the bun, as the topping on a pizza.
(although the waiter indicated it was very good!
E would recommend only if you are very hungry.)
then as we headed for the museum,
we realized we had left something in one of the shops.
the item was successfully retrieved, but
we were nearly back to place des vosges, and there we stayed.
I think for us, the essence of being here a month is that, like tonight,
we have allowed ourselves to change our minds, to not see all the must-see sights,
to walk and explore and happen upon people or places that charm us,
and to go "home" when we are tired.
~ taken by E ~
of our shopping and window gazing
Thursday, March 6, 2014
the name conjures up so many images...
sacre coeur, molin rouge, abessess, pigalle.
and so many names....
picasso, toulouse-lautrec, satie, chopin and sand.
we started with the climb to sacre coeur, then worked our
way down the butte (mountain)....
stopped for our noisette and coke,
took E's photo with an amazing street performer, using a soccer ball.
we found where Satie lived,
where Picasso lived and worked as a young man,
where Van Gogh stayed with his brother Theo (across the street from where I once stayed a week),
and the courtyard that Chopin and Sand shared but lived in separate apartments.
we had fun capturing each other in our photos,
stopping so Ernest could buy another meringue or two.
he claims there is now a trail of meringue dust
in paris where we have been!
we walked as far as place de l'opera,
always a grand sight,
before hopping on the packed metro
to return to place des vosges.
Wednesday, March 5, 2014
last evening after the fashion shoot
and the Rodin garden,
we stayed in the 7th arrondisement
for dinner at another of our foodie recommendations.
this took a little staying power, as we were tired and hungry.
my good man stayed with me on this one, even passing up
two restaurants with menus he found appealing.
it was worth the wait.
we arrived right at 6:30 when they open.
there were six young people already waiting.
E quickly noticed a little table tucked in the front window,
which gave us a great view of the entire restaurant.
the name refers to a baking dish with two handles
(and not the other meaning we typically associate with cocotte).
the menu is simple, little dishes served in Staub iron pots,
even the salad.
E had a "Ritz Ceasar" salad
and beef stew that delighted him.
I ordered the house specialty, caramelized pigs feet
in mashed potato blankets, with slightly bitter greens to cut the sweetness.
dessert, as I mentioned, yesterday
was the chef's signature chocolate tart,
and my noisette was served with a cookie spoon.
Tuesday, March 4, 2014
my friend Nina asked what might be my favorite memory of this month in paris?
it was today, it was yesterday, it was last week.
it is those happy circumstances that put us in a place at a particular moment.
today, we were headed to the military museum. it's been on our "list".
but when we got off the metro at place de la concorde,
there was a crowd of photographers and VIPs.
it is fashion week in paris.
oh, the parade of beautiful people, stylish, outlandish, at ease, in a rush to avoid the crowd.
E and I joined in the fun and clicked away our museum time.
without knowing who's who,
we watched the paparazzi suddenly swarm
around someone who apparently was well-known in some way.
to recover from this fast-paced hour of clicking,
we walked to the Rodin museum and spend some quiet time
contemplating his art in the gardens. it was just the antidote we needed.
we concluded our day at another foodie restaurant, les cocottes, the smallest
of Christian Constant's three places that line rue du st dominique,
offering little iron crocks of hearty comfort food, and an incredible chocolate tart.
~ and a few taken by E ~